There's a phrase that often echoes in my mind while living in El Paso.

In Spanish, it's "Que pasó?" What's happening? It's similar to saying "What's up?" or "What happened?" in English.

However, this phrase sounds a bit different to me. Que pasó? El Paso? Perhaps because of the similar pronunciation, the name of this city always feels like a question. It gives the impression of a city where something is always happening, a place that is constantly in motion.

After settling in El Paso for about ten years, I've found that while it may seem quiet on the surface, there's actually a lot going on beneath.

Although it's an American city, Spanish often sounds more natural than English on the streets. In stores, restaurants, and even government offices, greetings like "Buenos días" come first. Here, Spanish is not a foreign language but a part of daily life.

Living here also makes you acutely aware of the border.

The Mexican city right next to El Paso is Ciudad Juárez. Just crossing one bridge takes you to another country.

Juárez is a large industrial city with a population of over 1.5 million, home to many American factories, making it economically significant. However, it is also notorious for drug cartel violence. For several years starting in 2008, it had one of the highest murder rates in the world, earning the title of the most dangerous city. Although security has improved significantly since then, the perception of it being a dangerous area still lingers.

The contrast between these two cities is truly dramatic. On one side of the border is one of the safest major cities in the U.S., while on the other is a city that was once considered the worst in the world for crime. At night, when looking from the hills of El Paso towards Juárez, the lights stretch endlessly. It evokes a strange feeling; they seem like part of the same metropolitan area, yet the reality is entirely different.

The film Sicario most realistically portrays the tension of this border.

Sicario is set in the border region between El Paso and Juárez, depicting the invisible war between drug cartels and the U.S. government. The film features scenes with the FBI, CIA, and special forces, along with tunnels and smuggling routes crossing the border. While the movie has many dramatic elements, it also realistically highlights how crucial this area is for U.S. security.

Perhaps that's why there are so many federal agencies here. You see facilities and vehicles from agencies like Border Patrol, ICE, and CBP as part of everyday life. There are also large military installations and numerous federal buildings. When I first arrived, I wondered why there were so many government agencies, but living here has made the reason clear. This city is not just a local town; it's a key hub for border management in the American Southwest.

Sometimes I think that rather than viewing Mexico as a primary enemy, the U.S. sees it as a potential risk that needs to be managed thoroughly. Issues like illegal immigration, drug smuggling, and human trafficking actually come through the border.

As a result, the atmosphere of security is strong in the airport, roads, and even at small checkpoints. While outsiders might perceive it as a tense city, residents often feel a sense of security thanks to that management.

Daily life in El Paso is quite peculiar. In the morning, I listen to Spanish radio on my way to work, have tacos for lunch, and shop at American supermarkets in the evening. Culturally, it's a blend of American and Mexican influences, but life here is surprisingly peaceful.

I sometimes find myself muttering while driving. Que pasó? El Paso? This city always seems to have something happening, yet at the same time, it flows as if nothing is going on. It's a place where the tension of the border and the calm of daily life coexist. A place that is American yet deeply rooted in Latin culture. And a city that is always under the watchful eye of the federal government.

Perhaps that's why I feel that El Paso is not just a simple local town, but rather a reflection of how the U.S. views and manages its border with Mexico.